Visit to Zanzibar
Report of Douglas and Pat Cameron - October 2008

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Zanzibar : 4th October – 15th October 2008.

Our journey out to Zanzibar involved 4 planes, the last being a single engine from Dar es Salaam. The pilot flew quite low giving us clear views of what lay beneath us, including Mount Kilimanjaro, on our 15 minute flight. Alawi of GTI our travel agents met us with warm greetings. He told us that Saidi, who usually comes, was taking an all day spice tour. At the Tembo Hotel Alawi insisted that we be given the Presidential Suite, at no extra charge, as this was our 6th visit, we were now family, not tourists! The room was large with comfortable chairs, poor lighting, and a Persian bath with no plug, but there was a shower. A balcony ran along two sides with direct views of the sea and harbour. Every room now has a fridge for water and non alcoholic drinks. The hotel is owned and run my Moslems.

   Saidi from GTI, now a good friend, came next morning to check on us. Although Ramadan had ended two days earlier, Saidi said he was fasting for a further 6 days. He explained his reason in this way: The feast of Ramadan had been his guest, - when you have guests staying you often want them to stay longer, - so it was for him and Ramadan. The extra days of fasting would be a blessing to him. Saidi emphasises again and again that Islam is a religion of peace and is appalled by violence and killing. After lunch we walked to the Cathedral to meet Bishop John Ramadhani and Father Matthew, the Vicar General. Bishop John always remembers worshipping at St Columba’s on the Isle of Mull in 2003 and asks after everyone.Fr Matthew is a quiet, hard working priest with vision. He has the worry and responsibility of raising money to restore the Cathedral (built on the site of the old slave market, and a World Heritage site) before it collapses. To give this need some publicity in a Moslem country, he took a group on a sponsored climb of Mount Kilimanjaro which was tough as they didn’t have enough time to acclimatise, and Matthew in particular suffered from altitude sickness, but despite that he made it to the top. While talking to Bishop John and Fr Matthew, a man came into the room to wait for a wedding party to arrive. He told us he had been trained in media and television work by the Croatians. Arrangements were made for out transport to St Barnabas Church, Mahonda the next morning.

   Fr Charles, a young priest, on loan from a mainland diocese picked us up. Because the law states that until you have been resident in Zanzibar for a year no driving licence will be issued, so a driver has to take Fr Charles around. ‘Sleeping policemen’ are now in place where the road goes through villages. Fr Emmanuel is in Dar es Salaam, studying at St Mark’s Theological College with Fr Stephen Kamwendo, his predecessor at Mahonda. Fr Emmanuel’s wife, Agnes remains at Mahonda with their 5 children. Their eldest son, Gordon, plays the keyboard for services.

   St Barnabas congregation, as always, gave us a warm welcome. Fr Charles encourages the congregation to use their bodies in movement when singing hymns, with the choir giving a good lead. Mothers with small children wander in and out during the service. Just as Douglas finished preaching, the heavens opened causing the congregation to hastily move to a spot where rain did not pour through the holes of the corrugated iron roof. With the rain beating down on the iron roof, the service continued, unheard, until it became a quieter shower.

   After the service speeches of appreciation were made for the help St Columba’s gives to St Barnabas. The offerings of the people were partly in money and vegetables. The vegetables were divided up to be given to Fr Charles, Agnes and the housebound. Fr Stephen’s work is being continued by Fr Emmanuel, and in their absence Fr Charles is making his own noticeable contribution to the life of St Barnabas. It was an encouraging visit.

   Arranging to be at the school next morning, we were informed that the ending of Ramadan was holiday time, and there would not be many children present, but we were welcome to visit.

   Indeed there were only a few children with two teachers, one of whom, Mary, looks after the computer and photocopier, and the other is Agnes, Emmanuel’s wife. The classroom for the older children now has tables and chairs. In the other classroom the wee ones sit on the concrete floor. We took a supply of exercise books and biros for the school and some bible stories for the Christian children. The Headmaster of the Cathedral School has been given overall charge of St Barnabas School as well, and the teachers are happy to have his guidance and help with the curriculum. His oversight will benefit both teachers and pupils. The children delighted in showing us that they could count to 100, recite the alphabet, and sing songs.

   Mary, the teacher, took us to the office to be shown the computer and photocopier. The photocopier (the second) bought new, a year ago, is almost paid for. The demand for its services is great so money is coming in. Both machines are properly looked after.

   On our way for a few days holiday at the Shooting Star Lodge on the east coast, we spent time at the new church of St Mark Kiwenga. Fr Stephen, when at Mahonda, was instrumental in building the village church. He had a motor bike which enables him to have regular services in the church. Now Fr Matthew or another priest, from the Cathedral, goes there once a month or so. The village Evangelist conducts services at other times. As the villagers are in the main Moslem, - Christian numbers are small. We gave the Evangelist some money, church linen and a small chalice and paten. Fr Matthew told us of their pleasure that they were not forgotten. At the Shooting Star Lodge, - Douglas was asked to baptise the 2½ year old of the owners. Jacob’s father is Tanzanian and his mother is from England.

   Having sought permission from the Vicar General to baptise Jacob, Douglas had to go on the internet to download the baptism service from the Scottish Episcopal Church website. Jacob, a lively, intelligent wee boy, was baptised in the beach bar, a beautiful setting, with a backdrop of the blue sky, and the sea. He remained solemn throughout. The Muslim staff called the service, which some watched at a distance, - a naming ceremony. That evening Jacob told his English grandfather, on the phone, that the bishop had put a cross on his forehead. Douglas learnt AFTER the baptism that grandfather had worked on the staff of Lord Donald Coggan, as appointments advisor, when he was Archbishop of Canterbury and his great uncle was the Dean of Wells.

   The following week-end we transferred to the Mbweni Ruins Hotel close to St John’s Church, Mbweni (and to the airport). Living in Fr Stephen’s house is Deacon Matthew with his family. Deacon Matthew has the care of St John’s though most Sundays a priest comes from the Cathedral. (Since our return Matthew has been ordained priest). Matthew is an older man, a teacher before ordination. We called on him to make ourselves known and for Douglas to talk about Sunday. Final coats of paint were being put on the shops, balloons inflated, and the ground around tidied. In the church Peter Sudi, the warden, was busy ironing the robes for Sunday and some women were cleaning. A leading member of the Mother’s Union was preparing for a conference, the following week, of members from the mainland as well as local women. The M.U. is active. The Zanzibar groups are poor and wonder how to obtain membership badges.

   Sunday morning the church was full, - women, as usual on one side, men on the other. The choir led by a trained musician, sang many religious songs. They are raising money to go by ferry to the mainland to sing in some of the Anglican churches there. The leader is also looking to put the choir’s singing on a CD for selling. Douglas did all that he was asked to do, as well as preaching. As with St Barnabas, Mahonda, - the St John’s people expressed deep appreciation of the money given to aid them with their projects which are part of their mission outreach to the community. One man said he hoped we would understand their gratitude because they could not put it into words. The service over, the congregation processed out of church led by clergy and acolytes. Douglas offered prayers of thanksgiving and blessing before officially ‘opening’ the shops by cutting a red ribbon. The shops are to be rented out for funds and it is hoped that one will be a Pharmacy. It was some time before the people dispersed as all were eager to see inside and remain chatting. It was a happy event.

   Deacon Matthew’s wife, Fiona, provided lunch for us and the church VIPs. We were given forks but everyone else used their fingers. Octopus on the menu, a favourite for Zanzibari's. We were made to feel very much at home and the conversation ranged from church affairs, politics, to the take over of much of the east coast by a wealthy Omani. There is huge opposition to the building of unwelcome large hotel complexes.

   Fr Matthew, Vicar General, came out to Mbweni on the Monday to join us for lunch and to talk about the financial problems of the diocese, and his particular concern over the state of the Cathedral. He is doing his best to raise money in many ways, by training tour guides, to conduct visitors around the Cathedral and compound, - telling the story of the site’s shameful past and of its Christian present. They are hoping to find money to pay for the college fees of a young woman to go to the mainland to study tourism etc. Matthew longs to return to parish life, his real love, but until a bishop is elected he is to remain vicar general. Deacon Matthew had lunch with us on another day, as did Joyce Wakati of the M.U. and Sarah and Jane Toto, the widow and daughter of Bishop Douglas Toto( who visited us in Oban and taken to Iona). Joyce was delighted to receive a gift of sewing supplies for cross stitch etc from St Paul’s Kinlochleven. Our visit gave us much encouragement as the parishes are trying to help themselves and the money received from Mull adds to what is possible.

   On out way home, through Dar es Salaam, we had dinner with Fr Stephen, Victoria and Hilda, their daughter. Stephen, though finding the studying difficult is enjoying the opportunity to better his education. Victoria had gained in confidence as she is learning English and taking a course in cookery. Stephen is grateful to the Diocese of Argyll & The Isles for his fees.

   We hope finance and health permitting to return in October 2009.


Pat Cameron – 30th December 2008

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